And here we go...PART 1 - the Briggs and Williams homemade pressure washer outboard project!

And here we go...PART 1 - the Briggs and Williams homemade pressure washer outboard project!

   May 11, 2026       editor

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I've had a $25 pressure washer with a broken pump in the basement now for well over a year. I also have a midsection and leg off of a late 70's Ted Williams 7.5 hp outboard. I plan to marry the two together in a manner befitting a mad scientist and create another version of my first Briggs and Williams homemade outboard.

I haven't tested the TW yet. I will have to address any issues with it or replace it if it has serious problems. 

This is a Briggs 875 EXi series. It most likely is 10 years old. And, it most likely puts out about 6 horsepower. I can confirm this, as my other Briggs conversion also uses an 875 EXi and it pushed my 12 foot jon boat the exact same speed as the Johnson 6 I used to have. 

I got the Ted Williams (TW) on a trade for a trolling motor that came with a boat that I bought. It was a bit under-powered compared to modern trollers, so I traded it on Marketplace for the Ted Williams. I would estimate it's value at $50, so that's what we'll say the TW cost me. I tried a few times to see if it would run as-is, but gave up pretty quickly. I put the powerhead on Marketplace for free and it went to a guy who was restoring his own Ted Williams, so in the end, it helped someone. 

The first step, however, is to make sure that I have a running motor. The pressure washer was advertised as being dead, but the seller was careful to mention that it was only the pump that was not working and that the engine was functional. He demonstrated it running before I took it home...he started it, I paid him, and I left with it.

The carburetors on these things are set up to run at a certain speed, and that speed is NOT idle speed. Believe me, with the first one, I tried to make it work, only to find that I was wasting a lot of time. The contraptions on the top that adjust choke and throttle are a Rube Goldberg level of complexity and I'm still not sure how they work.

What IS all that junk?

Plus, the carb was in BAD shape. Both the bolt holes were broken off and not serviceable. Only one of the airbox screws was present. Even though it started and ran, it had a definite miss to it. 

First order of business was to replace the carb with one that had an idle screw so I could easily set the idle speed. Off to the 'Zon and in a few days, I had one of these in hand.

Unfortunately, that carb also has the fuel inlet on the wrong side. The inelegant solution is to route the fuel line around the bottom of the carb and up and around from behind. Not ideal, but this is the way I've had it on my other engine for a couple years now and it just works. 

Beyond that, I had to do some cleanup on the engine, make a gasket where the carb insulator butts up against the block, and make a working choke mechanism that I will be able to activate via a pushrod from the front. 

Since I did this, I was able to tweak so that the choke closes down tight and opens up all the way as it should.

As a result of all of this, the engine fires up and runs smoothly and idles down nicely. Next step is to actually get it off the pressure washer base and pump, which is going to be a challenge. The nuts are pretty well seized on the bolts that hold the engine down and they show no sign of moving. I used a concoction of ATF, kerosene, and acetone to hose them down and let it sit overnight. That's supposed to be a really effective homemade penetrating oil (actually, it's supposed to be made with diesel, but kerosene should be close enough). We'll see tomorrow if it's good to go. 

Investment so far: $50 TW mid/lower +$25 engine +$19 carburetor = $94. Not bad. Hoping to get in under $150, which is a steal for a 6hp outboard of any type. Then we'll see what I can get for it on a flip. 

As always, as an Amazon affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases. All products that I have linked are products that I have purchased directly, or that I am familiar with through other means, unless noted otherwise. I will never suggest you purchase products of poor or unknown quality.

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The Plastic Bass Boat...Gimmick or Legitimate Tool?

The Plastic Bass Boat...Gimmick or Legitimate Tool?

   March 18, 2026       editor

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  Getting on the water for less than $1000 is easier than you think

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• Let's face it...fishing from the bank is boring. In order to maximize your chances of catching fish, you need to cover some water. But, a boat is quite an investment, and one that not everyone is prepared to make.
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• Small plastic fishing boats like the Pond Prowler (often sold through Bass Pro Shops or similar brands, including models like the 8', 10', or similar designs from Pelican Bass Raider, Pelican Intruder, Sun Dolphin, or Quest Angler) offer an affordable, no-fuss way to access the water. These roto-molded polyethylene pontoon-style or mini flat-bottom boats typically seat 1-2 people, weigh 100-150 lbs, and cost $500–$900 new. They're popular for casual anglers who want something simpler and more stable than a kayak but smaller than a full jon boat.
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• When I started getting back into fishing a few years ago, these types of boats made sense. Not having a boat of my own, I just wanted something simple and easy to use so that I could get out on the water and access some spots that not everyone fished.
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• The Good...
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• After using these boats exclusively for a couple years, here's my takeaway:
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• Exceptional stability — The wide, pontoon-like design (often with raised seats) makes them feel rock-solid. Many users report standing up to cast or sight-fish without much worry of tipping, far better than comparable small jon boats or kayaks.
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• Portability and storage — Lightweight and compact, they fit in a truck bed, on a car roof rack, or even sideways in a garage. A utility trailer at least 4 feet wide lets you easily haul and hand launch just about any one of these boats. This opens up private ponds, small public access points without ramps, or spots where trailered boats are banned.
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• Affordability and low maintenance — Priced well under $1,000 (often cheaper used), they're a budget win. At that price, you'll have some funding room to add a sub $500 outboard to increase the range exponentially. The tough polyethylene construction resists impacts, rocks, and everyday abuse better than many expect—virtually "indestructible" for normal use with minimal upkeep (no painting, little corrosion).
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• Comfort for fishing — Flat, usable floor space, raised swivel seats for 360° casting, leg room, and often mounting points for trolling motors (electric or small gas up to 3.5 hp) make them fish-focused. Great for relaxed sessions on calm water.
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• Versatility on small waters — Ideal for ponds, small lakes, and protected coves where you need to sneak into shallow areas quietly. Pair this with a trolling motor, such as the Newport Vessels 55lb thrust motor and you have a rig that can fight a decent current but still give silent performance and good battery life on lower speeds.
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• The Bad...
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• No boat is perfect, and these mini plastics have clear limitations, especially as waters get bigger or conditions rougher:
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• Wind vulnerability — Lightweight and low-profile design means they get pushed around easily in even moderate breezes (10–15 mph+). Users often note they're "not the best wind-resistant" and can be frustrating on open lakes.
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• Speed and range limits — Slow even with a decent trolling motor—fine for small areas but tiring on larger bodies where covering distance matters. Not built for big lakes or long hauls. Even with gas motors, the hull design makes high speeds difficult, and by the time you've "engined up" to the point where you're getting good performance, you've far exceeded the horsepower limits and the safety of the original design. Nevertheless, I'm not your daddy and there are a lot of people who like to push the limits of these things...just know what you're getting into, both legally and from a safety standpoint.
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• Capacity and space constraints — Weight limits (often 400–500 lbs total) and cramped layouts make them tight for two people with gear. Rod storage, coolers, and tackle can feel squeezed; not ideal for heavy loads or extended trips. Space is limited, especially for two people. I've fished out of the 8 foot version with a buddy and it's less than comfortable.
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• Water type restrictions — Best for calm ponds and small lakes. They sit low and handle shallows well. Although they are good in choppy conditions, and some even use them on open oceans, rivers with current, or big open water where you wouldn't expect, that doesn't mean they're fun or safe for those types of scenarios.
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• Minor annoyances — Floor flex when standing (on smaller models), limited built-in rod holders, and slower maneuverability in tight spots compared to a kayak.
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• The Verdict: Would buy another, but I've moved on to aluminum jon boats. But don't think for a second that I haven't seen one on Marketplace for a song and almost pulled the trigger...
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• You'll want this if you like...
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• Ponds and tiny private lakes...yes — These boats excel here: easy launch, stable platform, quiet approach.
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• Small to medium calm lakes...yes — With light winds and electric power, they're fun and effective for bass, panfish, or casual outings.
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• Rivers or larger/rougher waters...probably not — Not recommended unless very protected; wind, current, and waves highlight the drawbacks quickly.
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• If you're fishing mostly small, sheltered waters and value portability over speed or all-weather capability, a Pond Prowler-style boat is hard to beat for the price. Many owners rave about them after years of use, calling them a game-changer for getting on overlooked spots.
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•  A caveat...these often serve as a gateway drug for larger boats, so be warned...
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• As an Amazon affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases. All products that I have linked are products that I have purchased directly, or that I am familiar with through other means. I will never link to products of poor or unknown quality.

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