And here we go...PART 1 - the Briggs and Williams homemade pressure washer outboard project!

And here we go...PART 1 - the Briggs and Williams homemade pressure washer outboard project!

   May 11, 2026       editor

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I've had a $25 pressure washer with a broken pump in the basement now for well over a year. I also have a midsection and leg off of a late 70's Ted Williams 7.5 hp outboard. I plan to marry the two together in a manner befitting a mad scientist and create another version of my first Briggs and Williams homemade outboard.

I haven't tested the TW yet. I will have to address any issues with it or replace it if it has serious problems. 

This is a Briggs 875 EXi series. It most likely is 10 years old. And, it most likely puts out about 6 horsepower. I can confirm this, as my other Briggs conversion also uses an 875 EXi and it pushed my 12 foot jon boat the exact same speed as the Johnson 6 I used to have. 

I got the Ted Williams (TW) on a trade for a trolling motor that came with a boat that I bought. It was a bit under-powered compared to modern trollers, so I traded it on Marketplace for the Ted Williams. I would estimate it's value at $50, so that's what we'll say the TW cost me. I tried a few times to see if it would run as-is, but gave up pretty quickly. I put the powerhead on Marketplace for free and it went to a guy who was restoring his own Ted Williams, so in the end, it helped someone. 

The first step, however, is to make sure that I have a running motor. The pressure washer was advertised as being dead, but the seller was careful to mention that it was only the pump that was not working and that the engine was functional. He demonstrated it running before I took it home...he started it, I paid him, and I left with it.

The carburetors on these things are set up to run at a certain speed, and that speed is NOT idle speed. Believe me, with the first one, I tried to make it work, only to find that I was wasting a lot of time. The contraptions on the top that adjust choke and throttle are a Rube Goldberg level of complexity and I'm still not sure how they work.

What IS all that junk?

Plus, the carb was in BAD shape. Both the bolt holes were broken off and not serviceable. Only one of the airbox screws was present. Even though it started and ran, it had a definite miss to it. 

First order of business was to replace the carb with one that had an idle screw so I could easily set the idle speed. Off to the 'Zon and in a few days, I had one of these in hand.

Unfortunately, that carb also has the fuel inlet on the wrong side. The inelegant solution is to route the fuel line around the bottom of the carb and up and around from behind. Not ideal, but this is the way I've had it on my other engine for a couple years now and it just works. 

Beyond that, I had to do some cleanup on the engine, make a gasket where the carb insulator butts up against the block, and make a working choke mechanism that I will be able to activate via a pushrod from the front. 

Since I did this, I was able to tweak so that the choke closes down tight and opens up all the way as it should.

As a result of all of this, the engine fires up and runs smoothly and idles down nicely. Next step is to actually get it off the pressure washer base and pump, which is going to be a challenge. The nuts are pretty well seized on the bolts that hold the engine down and they show no sign of moving. I used a concoction of ATF, kerosene, and acetone to hose them down and let it sit overnight. That's supposed to be a really effective homemade penetrating oil (actually, it's supposed to be made with diesel, but kerosene should be close enough). We'll see tomorrow if it's good to go. 

Investment so far: $50 TW mid/lower +$25 engine +$19 carburetor = $94. Not bad. Hoping to get in under $150, which is a steal for a 6hp outboard of any type. Then we'll see what I can get for it on a flip. 

As always, as an Amazon affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases. All products that I have linked are products that I have purchased directly, or that I am familiar with through other means, unless noted otherwise. I will never suggest you purchase products of poor or unknown quality.

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Don't Have A Life? Enjoy Pain? You Too Can Build Your Own Outboard!

Don't Have A Life? Enjoy Pain? You Too Can Build Your Own Outboard!

   March 18, 2026       editor

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You can build your own outboard for less than $200, but should you? 

No. 

There. 

I just saved you countless hours of anger, frustration, and disappointment. 

But for those of us who won't listen to good advice or have any common sense,  assembling your own outboard motor using a 4-stroke engine (often sourced from a lawnmower, pressure washer, or small generator) is a popular DIY project among budget boaters, tinkerers, and self-loathing masochists everywhere.

I did this myself a few years ago, and I have to admit, it turned out better than I imagined it would. But what is the average person looking at if they want to do their own conversion, and what are the pros and cons?

 
The overall plan typically involves mounting a vertical shaft engine to a salvaged outboard lower unit (gearbox, propeller, and leg), possibly fabricating brackets, extending the driveshaft, and adding controls. My personal creation consists of a Briggs and Stratton pressure washer engine that I got from Marketplace for $25, married to the midsection and lower of an old Ted Williams 5.5 horsepower 2 stroke from the 1970s. It was cheap and a fun project that saved money, but it was far from plug-and-play.

INSTANT VERDICT, SUBJECT TO CHANGE: Significant cost savings — You can often build one for under $100–$300 using scavenged parts (e.g., a free/cheap used lawnmower engine + a junked outboard lower unit), compared to hundreds or thousands for even a small commercial outboard. The Sears/Ted Williams/Eska parts are a dime a dozen, due to the fact that these motors have a solid state ignition in them that inevitably fails, leaving them pretty much useless without a lot of time, effort and money to convert them to CDI aftermarket ignition systems. So, people sell them all the time in non-running condition. The good part is, everything from the powerhead down is tough as nails and will hold up well to just about any motor that will fit on top of them. I've gotten them for as little as $75, and the gearboxes/lower units work flawlessly.






THE GOOD: Style points for being able to say you made your own outboard. Knowing it thoroughly inside and out and being able to fix any potential issues. Cheap.


THE BAD: Well, if you hate repairing machines, you probably won't like building one from secondhand parts. And the crowd who will be impressed with your accomplishment will likely be very small and certainly not female.


THE VERDICT: I'm a glutton for punishment, so I'm doing it a second time!





Here are the main pros and cons I've found based on what I did.

Pros

Ease of repairs and finding parts...or replacing altogether — 4-stroke engines are more familiar to many...and parts are easy to find. For example, I got a carburetor with an idle screw from Amazon for my Briggs and Stratton 190cc vertical shaft engine. That made it idle much smoother than the one that came with the engine, which was unreliable and hard to keep running. Plus, any lawn mower repair shop can work on my outboard, and if I decide it's not worth fixing, I get another motor off of Facebook and swap it out. Easy.

Reliability and longevity potential — With proper setup, 4-strokes are easier to start in many cases, and they tend to run a long time with minimal care. You do have the added variable of the quality of conversion, but mine has functioned reliably for a few years now with minimal fuss.

Customization and satisfaction — Full control over the build lets you tailor power...you can build something smaller for lightweight boats, or a heavier setup to fight current and winds. Plus, many DIYers enjoy the engineering challenge and learning experience.

Eco-friendlier option — Lower emissions make it more suitable for restricted waters compared to old 2-stroke setups. You'll miss the 2 stroke rainbows, trust me.

You don't have to worry about what happens to it — Since you literally made it from junk, you can run it into the ground and smash it to bits. It's practically disposable!

In other words, if all you're wanting to do is move a boat around, AND you're not concerned with speed, AND you're willing to trade cost for time and effort, AND you have tools and raw materials lying around, AND you really don't have a social life, then this is the project for you!

As awesome as all of that sounds, it's not all sunshine and rainbows.

Cons

 
Complexity and fabrication required — Aligning the engine to the lower unit, building sturdy mounts, and creating throttle/steering controls takes the patience of mechanical skill, tools, and trial-and-error. If you don't have the patience for "fail, fix, and fail again," then this is not for you, Captain Anger.

Performance limitations — Mine lacks reverse gear, doesn't turn a very high RPM, and can get hot if I push it too hard (you can tell by the smell, lol). Two stroke boat engines, often water cooled, can run at extreme speeds...my Johnson 9.9 has run at a confirmed 6800 RPM. But, the Briggs and Stratton would be lucky to top out at 4000, and then it would probably be running dangerously fast, risking the valves meeting the pistons for the first time.

Safety and durability risks — Improper alignment can cause vibrations and binding, which can lead to stress on components. If you're new to this stuff, the reliability of your finished product can be hit-or-miss compared to factory outboards, depending on the quality of the conversion. Personally, I've had very few failures with my conversion, which I attribute more to luck than anything else.

Time and frustration — Expect multiple iterations, troubleshooting (e.g., aligning and re-aligning, mounts, setting up remote throttle and choke controls, etc), and potential breakdowns on the water. Mine was not a quick weekend project. However, this is the age of YouTube, so there are countless videos out there documenting the conversions from which you can glean ideas and understand how to solve common problems.

Legal and practical issues — May not meet boating regulations in some areas (noise, emissions, certification), harder to insure, and resale value is not going to be ideal. Surprisingly, however, I jokingly offered to sell one and the person I offered it to jumped at the $300 price I set. That was well above what I had in it. But, truth be told, if you're dealing with broken motors in the first place, then resale value probably isn't your primary concern.

Even though they can be made for cheap, don't plan to do this with the idea of making money...yes, you can make one for little or nothing, but at the end of the day, its a cheap motor with lots of limitations, and potential buyers have no indication of what they are actually getting. Price accordingly.




For most people seeking out-of-the-box dependability and hassle-free performance—especially in demanding conditions—a used or new factory outboard is probably a smarter choice. Mine, however, has been remarkably trouble free and I still use it regularly. I enjoyed the project so much that I plan to build another one in the near future.

As an Amazon affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases. All products that I have linked are products that I have purchased directly, or that I am familiar with through other means. I will never link to products of poor or unknown quality.

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The AK-47 of Outboard Motors.

The AK-47 of Outboard Motors.

   March 18, 2026       editor

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Johnson/Evinrude small outboards are cheap, easy to work on, and darn near unkillable.

The author's refurbished 1989 Johnson 9.9 at full throttle in the summer of 2025.

If you’ve ever hung around boat ramps or poked through Marketplace searching for “outboard" or "boat motors” , you’ve probably noticed one thing: old Johnson and Evinrude outboards are all over the place. That's because they just keep going. 

INSTANT VERDICT, SUBJECT TO CHANGE:
THE GOOD: It's a Johnson. There are three moving parts. You have to be stupid to break it. Parts are readily available and its easy to work on. And a properly tuned one is a good performer and reliable as the day is long. They don't cost thousands of dollars. Lightweight and powerful.

THE BAD: These things aren't getting any younger. If you find a good one, you're good, but you have to be careful. You'll probably have to do some work to get it going regardless. 

THE VERDICT: Yes, yes, yes. Would buy again. Even the minor hassles have not been a big deal, and it puts a smile on your face every single time you take it out.

These classic two-stroke OMC (Outboard Marine Corporation) motors—from the 1960s through the early 1990s—have earned a cult following among fishermen, weekend cruisers, and tinkerers alike. While modern four-strokes get all the glossy marketing, the old “Johnnyrudes” (as enthusiasts affectionately call the shared-platform Johnson/Evinrude twins) win on three unbeatable fronts: they’re nearly indestructible, ridiculously easy to fix yourself, and dirt-cheap to own and run.

Built Like Tanks: Legendary Durability

These motors weren’t designed for planned obsolescence. Their simple carbureted two-stroke design, robust castings, and overbuilt internals mean many are still running strong after 30, 40, or even 50+ years. Boaters routinely report 2,000+ hours in saltwater with nothing more than basic care.

The example pictured above...my own...is a 1989 model. It's been thoroughly overhauled...which means in reality, surprisingly little has been touched, as everything was in pretty good condition when I got it. Compression on both cylinders was above 125. The fuel pump and coils were working fine, so they are still on the motor and in use. The carb was rebuilt, and that was an exercise in simplicity (removing it, not so much, but I did learn to take it off without dismantling the starter after I "made" my own carb wrench). The impeller was re-done. And it runs like a dream, pushing my 1542 jon boat along at an ample 18 mph.

How are these engines able to function with such longevity? Minimal complexity and robust build quality. Run them hard, put them away wet, and they just keep purring. Many enthusiasts swear the carbureted models from the ’70s–early ’90s are the toughest outboards ever mass-produced. Truly, the "AK-47" of outboard motors.

Wrench It Yourself: Repairs So Easy a Beginner Can Do Them

Vintage Johnson/Evinrude 9.9/15 hp outboards are mechanical simplicity at its finest.

Carburetor rebuilds take a few hours with basic hand tools. Impeller swaps are a half hour. Lower-unit seals or gear oil changes are dead simple with YouTube guidance. Entire powerhead rebuilds are common DIY projects because every part is still available and the manuals are crystal-clear. I did that on the engine above after a cheap failed impeller sent chunks of rubber into the cooling jackets of the engine and caused an overheat (always use quality parts!). Yanked the head (there was still crosshatching on the piston walls, 30+ years later!), flushed the jackets, and put it all back together myself with a minimum of fuss. Impressive considering I can be Captain Anger when it comes to complex mechanical stuff, but this was not a big deal at all. And yes, it still runs just fine.

Hundreds of restoration videos show people bringing 40- and 50-year-old motors back to life in garages. They’re easy to work on and very simple motors. Parts are usually everywhere. And not just used parts...you can get aftermarket and OEM stuff relatively cheap as well.

Even if you pay a shop to do the work for you, labor is far cheaper than on computerized four-strokes because nothing is proprietary or sealed. Everything is dead simple.

A Budget Friendly Option if You Have the Least Bit of Mechanical Aptitude.

You can score a running 1970s–1990s Johnson or Evinrude 9.9/15s for a few hundred bucks—sometimes less than the price of a single new impeller on some fancy brands. “Dirt cheap” motors pop up constantly because everyone upgrading to four-strokes floods the used market. I bought the motor pictured above for $350. It is a 9.9 with an upgraded 15 hp carburetor. I've seen several similar bargains since.

Ongoing costs are super reasonable, even for high quality Sierra or OEM parts:

• Carb rebuild kits: under $30

• Impellers and gear oil: $25–$45 per season

• Spark plugs and fuel lines: available at local parts stores for cheap

• No expensive computer modules or dealer programming
  

Fuel economy isn’t class-leading (they’re two-strokes), but for a 9.9 hp or 25 hp trolling motor on a jon boat or small skiff, who cares? The power-to-weight ratio is far superior to a similar four stroke, and you start so "up front" on saving purchase costs that it would take you years to break even with a more modern 4 stroke counterpart. You’re spending pocket change compared to the $10,000+ sticker on a new 25 hp. And because parts are interchangeable across decades of Johnson/Evinrude models, one donor motor can supply pieces for years.

Why Vintage Johnson/Evinrude Still Rules for Smart Boaters.

In an era of $15,000+ outboards with touchscreens and 500-hour service intervals, the old Johnson and Evinrude twins stand out as honest, no-nonsense machines. They deliver reliable power, invite you to learn real mechanical skills (with a vast YouTube safety net), and let you spend your boating budget on fuel, adventures, and cold drinks instead of dealer invoices.

If you’re tired of throwing money at “modern” complexity, hunt down a well-maintained 1975–1995 Johnson or Evinrude. Give it a compression test, fresh plugs, and a carb clean, and you’ll likely have a motor that outlives your boat—and your budget.

How to buy a used Johnson/Evinrude outboard...the smart, low-risk way.

A little prep and a few simple tools are all you need to check an old Johnson/Evinrude and see if it's a good candidate for a fixer-upper. You'll need:

• A compression tester

• A spark tester

• An impact screwdriver for removing oil plugs in the lower (they tend to freeze up)

• Some common hand tools for removing spark plugs,

• A patient seller (I've never had one balk at reasonable tests).

First and most importantly is a compression test. Before you test, find out what the acceptable compression numbers are for that engine. Hook your compression tester to one spark plug hole and give several good yanks on the pull start (or cranks on the electric starter, if there is one). Obviously, if the engine won't turn, then you need to move on.  If the motor turns over, check that the compression numbers are within range. But even more important is that in multiple cylinder engines, your numbers are within 10 PSI of another. If your candidate passes this test, proceed to the next step.

Second is a spark test. Hook your spark tester between the spark wire and the spark plug itself. Give the engine several cranks, and then swap and do the other cylinder. If you see a glow when pulling the crank, your engine has spark and you can proceed to the next step. 
Third is a check of the lower unit oil. Dark oil is OK. Light or new looking oil is probably OK...it could be a sign of frequent maintenance or an attempt to mask problems. Milky oil that looks like egg nog is a red flag...it might be a simple driveshaft seal, or it could be something more complicated like a cracked lower. Just playing the odds would dictate that you should probably pass. If it passes all three tests, then you have a good candidate for a repairable motor. A carb cleaning/rebuild, replacing some fuel lines, fuel pump, impeller, etc, should give you a decent runner for around $100 above the purchase price. ALWAYS replace the impeller first if you don't know how long it's been since it's been replaced. If you run it with a bad impeller, then you'll likely be tearing down the engine if pieces of it get sucked up into the water jackets and inhibit cooling. Not a huge deal to tear it down, but it adds a lot of steps between you and adventure.

The temptation may be great to replace with generic parts, and in some cases, you can get away with it, but believe me, it is best to "buy once, cry once" when it comes to this stuff, especially since a miscalculation can leave you rowing several miles back. OEM/Sierra except in the links above, or you're asking for trouble.

That's it. Did I miss anything? Leave your comments below! 
As an Amazon affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases. All products that I have linked are products that I have purchased directly, or that I am familiar with through other means. I will never link to products of poor or unknown quality.

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